Last July, news broke about a strange new strain of the mpox virus popping up in Kamituga, a small mining town in Congo. Unlike previous outbreaks, this one was spreading quickly through sexual contact—a behavior scientists hadn’t seen before. Within months, it had reached several African countries, prompting the World Health Organization to sound the alarm.

For Stephanie Nolen, a reporter with nearly 30 years of experience covering health and development, this felt eerily familiar. “It reminded me of the early days of the H.I.V. crisis,” she said. A virus jumps from animals to humans, quietly circulates in isolated communities, and then explodes into a larger problem. But this time, thanks to genetic sequencing and quick action by health workers, the mystery was unraveled in months, not decades.

Determined to see the situation firsthand, Nolen set out for Kamituga in November. Her journey wasn’t easy. After landing in Kinshasa, she flew to Goma, then took a boat across Lake Kivu to reach Bukavu. From there, the real challenge began: a grueling motorbike ride through muddy, barely passable roads to finally arrive in Kamituga.

The town, once a quiet mining hub, had become the epicenter of a global health concern. Nolen’s reporting revealed how rapidly the virus was spreading and the efforts underway to contain it. Her visit offered a unique glimpse into the lives of those affected and the health workers racing against time.

This story isn’t just about a virus—it’s about the lengths journalists go to bring these stories to light. From battling the elements to navigating remote regions, Nolen’s journey is a testament to the importance of on-the-ground reporting.